Literally translated as The 4,000 Islands, the Mekong takes a well deserved break from it's southbound journey at this southern tip of Laos, right before it enters Cambodia. Characterized by its picturesque riverside landscapes and tranquilizing vibrations, 4,000 Islands is a place not to be missed if you're into anything related to relaxation.
To the South
After yet another eleven-hour sleeper bus ride, I arrived in the quiet riverside town of Pakse, in the far south of Laos. |
| Vientiane to Pakse. 11 hours of "sort of" sleep |
Pakse was a much needed breath of fresh air, literally and otherwise. This former regional capital of colonial Laos was made up of French-inspired two story villas, situated right on a beautiful bending stretch of the Mekong.
Along with my new Norwegian friend, Pernille, I walked around the quiet weekday morning streets of Pakse until I found a place to sleep for the night. $3 a night for a bed, bathroom and fan sounded more than reasonable, so I took it.
After breakfast, shower, and a Lao massage, we walked around for some photography and shopping through downtown Pakse.
I could've stayed for a few more days but my real destination for the week was further south, where the Mekong invites anyone and everyone to do just one thing: chill out.
Paradise Now
Only a two hour early morning bus ride away from Pakse, the Mekong village of Ben Nakasang serves as the gateway to 4,000 Islands, where those seeking a slower side of life can hop on a long-tail ferry to any one of the "4,000" islands of the Si Phan Don region.
With too many options to choose from, we elected Don Det, one of the more well known establishments of bungalow villages, with a novel accessory added not too long ago: electricity.
The landing at Don Det seemed to reveal a lot about the island, located in the middle of this extensively wide stretch of the Mekong. A couple of shaded outdoor restaurants guarded the sandy beach, where patrons sipped on Lao beer as the river flowed gently by, only feet away.
Walking down the only "road" on the island, I passed by bungalow guesthouses, riverside bars, and the occasional travel agent. I settled on the market average price of $2 a night. This of course included a bed, mosquito net, functional bathroom, and the most important component of all - a riverside hammock.
Lost in Repose
That was it. That was my job for the next three days: reading in my hammock, drinking coconut shakes, and the occasional exploratory walk around the island.
The beautiful thing about Don Det was the feeling that it was still this undiscovered secret, where perfect views of the Mekong from a hammock were still readily available without all of the cheesy gift shops or pseudo-hippies with too much money. Really, it was just exciting to have both beauty and space in the same spot. No crowds, just river.
My three days blurred together as if I stepped outside of reality, to experience a place where normality was transformed into an alternate world with no need for watches or resumes. It was dangerously tranquil. Like a black hole of peace and serenity, it sucks you in, and you suddenly realize - you can't stay here forever.
And this was constantly on my mind, as the hours flowed gently through the days like the Mekong flowed through the Islands. For me, it was time to head to Cambodia, where life slowly drift back into reality.
My three days blurred together as if I stepped outside of reality, to experience a place where normality was transformed into an alternate world with no need for watches or resumes. It was dangerously tranquil. Like a black hole of peace and serenity, it sucks you in, and you suddenly realize - you can't stay here forever.
And this was constantly on my mind, as the hours flowed gently through the days like the Mekong flowed through the Islands. For me, it was time to head to Cambodia, where life slowly drift back into reality.
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